Those of you who have been following me might remember this clock back in December when I shared it at Practically Functional. I'm sharing it again today here on my blog in case you missed it.
We made the clock large because it hangs on a wall in our front entry which has a 12-foot ceiling and a sightline to our living room.
The plank wood used for this clock are actually brand new 6-foot fence boards from Home Depot that I aged with a few techniques that I'll explain below.
- 6-foot pine fence boards x 8
- The Clock Shoppe High Torque 18"- 22" Clock Hands with Mechanism (Hobby Lobby)
- Aging solution (recipe below)
- Chalk paint in the colors Luscious Lime, Rocky Mountain Grey, and Simplicity White by Country Chic Paint
- Americana Decor Chalky Finish in the color New Life green
- Clear Wax by Country Chic Paint
- Dark Wax by Country Chic Paint
- Clean white lint-free rag
- 1-inch wood screws
- Large D-Ring Picture Hangers
- Graphite Paper
- Mitre Saw
- Power drill
- Large woodworking clamps
- Trammel Circle Marker
- Router with Plunge Router Bit
Aging the WoodTo get that aged wood appearance, I use what I refer to as Giggle Juice. What the heck is giggle juice, you ask?
Giggle Juice Recipe:
- Fine Steel Wool (the finer the wool, the easier it breaks down)
- White Distilled Vinegar or Apple Cider Vinegar (my personal preference)
- Soak the steel wool in vinegar in a sealed container (the longer the solution sits, the rustier the juice)
- I recommend you wear vinyl gloves because the smell of the solution will stay on your hands (trust me on this one)
- Rub the juice onto the wood with a piece of the saturated steel wool
- Apply in coats until you achieve the desired look
From what I've read, the acidic solution reacts with the tannins in the wood and essentially provides an acid wash stain. I always have a plastic container of Giggle Juice brewing in my shop so mine was super rusty. You can see the difference between the treated and non-treated wood in the picture below. I applied three coats to each board.
Assembling the Clock
Step 1 - Painting the Wood
After I aged the fence boards and let them completely dry, I randomly dry brushed layers of paint starting with the color New Life green. I let each color dry in between applications (it takes mere minutes). Next I repeated this step using Rocky Mountain Grey, followed by Simplicity White, and Luscious Lime. Note: you only have to paint seven of the boards, the eighth will be used for the uprights on the back.
Once the last coat was dry I applied a thin coat of clear wax using a lint-free rag to bring out the colors. Next I rubbed dark wax, using the same lint-free rag, only in the knot holes and where the wood had character and deep grains, and wiped away the excess. The final step was lightly buffing the waxes so they spread evenly over each board.
Dry Brush Technique: dip the brush so that just the tips have paint. Swipe the brush onto a paper towel to remove excess paint. Apply light pressure on the brush and randomly stroke the paint onto the wood. The goal is to achieve a timeworn look.
Step 2 - Attaching the Boards
Cut the extra fence board (the one you didn't paint) in half using a mitre saw to 3-foot lengths.
On the fourth board (middle board) mark where the center of the clock will be (19-inches from the edge). Using a 3/8"drill bit, drill a hole for the clock hand stem to fit through.
Lay the clock mechanism over the center mark and trace the outline with a pencil. On either side of the mechanism lay the 3-foot boards (these become your uprights). Note: Make sure the top of each upright sits level with one another from the top of the clock because your picture hangers will be mounted on them. Attach the fence boards to the uprights using 1-inch wood screws (see picture above).
Depending on the thickness of the boards and the maximum depth of the clock mechanism (ours was 7/8-inches) you may need to notch out some of the wood to recess the clock mechanism. Note: The mechanism should rest below the depth of the uprights. I would urge you to do this with a Router and Plunge Router Bit. Our son borrowed our router so we had to notch ours the old fashioned way using a chisel and hammer - hence the crude opening.
Step 3 - Cutting the Clock Round
Using a Trammel Circle Marker, draw out a 38-inch diameter circle on the back side of the clock with the pointed end of the Trammel in the center hole you drilled earlier for the clock mechanism.
Clamp the wood onto a worktable and use a jigsaw to cut along the circle, turning and reclamping as you go. With a mouse sander, smooth out the raw edge around the clock. Note: You will need to paint the raw edge using one or all of the colors on the pallet boards. I used the dry brush technique again along my edge.
Step 4 - Clockface Numbers
I found a clock face graphic that I liked at the Graphics Fairy website. I uploaded the graphic to Block Poster and enlarged the image using the Portrait orientation setting to fit the 38-inch diameter clock. Then I printed the clock face and pieced the template together with tape and cut it out.
Next I laid the template onto the clock, ensuring the twelve and six numbers were at the top and bottom and taped the template in place at the top. Using a sheet of graphite paper, I traced the template onto the wood.
Using art brushes and the chalk paint color, Rocky Mountain grey, I painted over the trace marks.
You could skip the steps above by gluing on vinyl self-adhesive, plastic, or wooden letters. You will need 20 I's, 4 V's and 4 X's. Unfortunately, we couldn't find 20 I's in stock locally so we resorted to painting the numerals.
Step 5 - Attaching the Clock Mechanism
We attached the clock mechanism onto the back of the clock using E6000 glue. Attach the clock hands to the front following the instructions on the package.
Step 6 - Attaching Picture Hangers
Attach Large D-Ring Hooks onto the top of each upright measuring 1-inch down from the top and screw in place. Insert one AA battery into the clock mechanism.
Step 7 - Hanging the Clock
Tip: Easy No Fail/No Measuring way to hang wall art
- Line up a piece of masking tape across the hanger of each D-Ring
- Mark at the top of each D-Ring where the nails/screws should go (see photo above)
- Remove the masking tape from the clock and attach to the wall (see photo below)
- Use a level to ensure the tape is perfectly straight
- Mark each dot using an Awl and remove the tape
- Place a drywall screw on each mark. Hopefully you hit a stud otherwise you will need to install drywall anchors like we did (see photos below).
Ta da, that's it!
I'm thrilled with the impact the clock makes when entering our home and while sitting in both our living room and dining room above.
I'm sharing this project at these fabulous LINKY PARTIES.
A great BIG Thank You to the following for featuring this project: